Khao Lak

With the coming release of the film, Tsunami, starring Naomi Watts and Ewan McGregor, Khao Lak has resurfaced in the mainstream spotlight. The film was shot in this area boasting 20 kms of lovely beaches set against a backdrop of jungle-covered mountains just about 100 kms north of Phuket, which was hardest hit when the tsunami of Boxing Day 2004 struck Thailand. It had since made an impressive recovery and is again popular with travellers who prefer relative peace, quiet and nature rather that crowded tourist bastions.

Why Go

The main lure of Khao Lak probably stems from the opportunity it offers for visitors to enjoy utter peace and quiet amid a backdrop of an unspoiled natural environment. Now, you might say that can be easily said about many other Thai beach destinations as well. Indeed, that’s true except that Khao Lak has less tourist crowds and is less commercialised – for the moment, at least. As one travel guide succinctly puts it, the attractions of Khao Lak are many but they are not flashy. It’s tame, even boring, compared to Patong (Phuket), Chaweng (Samui), or even Ao Nang (Krabi) – that is if you’re after exotic nightlife or rowdy full moon parties. You go to Khao Lak to relax, to de-stress, to recharge – and maybe avail of the many tropical activities that are so easily accessible to all. And numerous resorts and tourist facilities serve all your needs well, especially if you’re with your family or loved ones.

What To Do

Doing nothing is a great idea, if that’s what you have in mind. Otherwise, great offshore diving easily comes to mind as the top “to do” reason. The Similan Islands and Surin Islands, home to some of the best diving in Asia, are just offshore nearby, so why not take advantage of this. There are other several local dive sites to choose from and competent local companies to guide you. But if you’re not the adventurous type or sport freak, you can still find things to make your visit worthwhile and enjoyable, such as the uncrowded parks, the lush green mountains, the roads and beaches – the natural surroundings are all relatively unspoiled. As in other Thai beach destinations, you can swim, snorkel, kayak, go beachcombing, bike, nature trek, golf, massage, do spa, and learn a lot of many unique Thai ways of living. These are all easily available if you are interested. Otherwise, you can just enjoy the facilities of the many lovely resorts scattered around chiefly around the main urban areas of Bang la On, Bang Niang, and Khuk Khak.

What To See

If you want to see and explore more of the area, attractions include Lampi Waterfall, a very lovely waterfall about 30 minutes south of Khao Lak just off Highway 4 (turn off at Km 820). Great for early morning visits. Swimming is allowed. Khao Lak Lam Ru National Park, one of the kingdom’s protected green realms is another great see. It is located at Km 798.5, at the top of the Khao Lak headland, adjacent to police checkpoint. The park is within walking distance of many resorts in Bang la On. Across the road from park headquarters is a Buddhist shrine to the Khao Lak god. Another waterfall worth seeing is Chong Fah Waterfall, seven km inland off Route 4, at the northern end of Bang Niang. For those looking for some vestiges of the tsunami disaster, one only needs to go to central Bang Niang, where Police Boat 813 was swept approximately two kms inland by the 2004 tsunami. It has been left as a memorial and historical landmark. The Cheow Lan Lake and Rachaphrapha Dam offers superb views over the lake to the limestone ridges. They are located just two hours north of Khao Lak off highway 401. Boat trips are available. Another national park, the Khao Sok National Park, offers jungle trekking river rafting and waterfall visits. It is located just over an hour north of the Khao Lak area on Route 4. You might also want to visit Takuapa and the Old Town. The town was a centre for tin mining in the ‘20s and ‘30s, and its history can still be glimpsed by the surviving Sino- Portuguese architecture and quaint shops that gives the town a distinct character, among other things.

Sidetrip

Similan Islands – this an archipelago of nine islands is a protected Thai national park hugely popular among divers owing to the spectacular underwater scenery. Park is open December to May, closed to visitors the rest of the year. Local dive companies can arrange visits. Surin Islands – is composed of five stunningly beautiful islands 100 km north of the Similans.Local dive companies can arrange visits.

When To Go

Simply speaking, Khao Lak has two seasons: rainy from April to October and dry, from November to March. November is the certainly an ideal season to visit.

Eat & Drink

Resort guests will have no problem looking for a place serving decent even great meals, but if you want to venture outside your hotel, here are some places to go: O’Rendez-vous; Green Pepper; Hill Tribe Restaurant; Ingfah, Bang Niang Beach; Lucky Seafood; Shire’s Pie Shop at Central Bang Niang serves English breakfast; Takieng Restaurant; Mama’s Greeting, on the beach of JW Marriott Khao Lak beachfront; Phen Restaurant, Khuk Khak Beach; Pizza Pasta & Steak.

For the most part the top-end resort has bar and restaurants great for chilling out and sipping your favourite holiday drink, but not a few guests enjoy drinking outside probably because it affords them the opportunity to meet locals and other like- minded people – for making connections, asking questions, learning of new places – outside their comfort circle and also because often times, the drinks outside are more adventurous and cheaper. For the most part Singha is only Bt60 or Bt70. Some options: Walker’s Inn; Gecko Bar (Central Bang Niang); Jungle Bar and Restaurant; Mars Bar, Central Bang Niang (across the highway from the Tsunami Museum); Mr. Chay Bar, Bang Niang Market; Moo Moo Cabaret Show; Rusty Pelican Mexican Café; Song’s Bar; and Tha Bar (Bang Niang, inland side, near Riverside Guesthouse). Note: These listings are not all-inclusive and some places may be closed during the season of your stay.

How To Get There

By plane:
The easiest way is to fly into either Phuket (the closest alternative) or Krabi and go to Khao Lak from there. Both airports serve international as well as domestic destinations. Khao Lak is about 80 km from the Phuket International Airport. Bus fares vary from Bt80 to Bt100; some are air-conditioned, others not. Most resorts have transfer services to pick you up and send you back to airport.

By train:
Only for the more adventurous. The nearest train station is at Suratthani on the east coast, making this a less convenient option than just hopping on bus.

By bus:
No buses from Bangkok serve Khao Lak directly but the region is served well by buses originating not only from Bangkok but also Chumphon, Phuket, Ranong, Suratthani, and Takuapa. Buses depart Bangkok to Phang Nga from the southern bus terminal Sai Tai Mai for a 12-hour overnight trip and from there you must change bus to go to Khao Lak.

Warning: Getting to Sai Tai Bus Terminal can be a pain if you’re not familiar with the Bangkok traffic.

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